We start by calling in at “Information” – usually a total misnomer, but we are greeted by a capital girl called Nam who speaks good english and shows us around. Here they research and teach water conservation techniques, livestock and rice culture but more interesting to us are the seri-culture (silk) and indigo projects. I’m here because Sakon Nakhon is a centre of indigo dyeing and cotton weaving, and I want to find out more! We start at the Phu Phan Royal Study Centre a few miles out of town, one of 6 projects set up by the former King of Thailand to find sustainable ways to improve life in the local area. My rudimentary Thai is greeted with smiles and everyone is as helpful as can be. It’s redneck country out here: cowboy hats, tractors and buffalo, pork products aplenty, and dry, searing heat, but the people of Sakon turn out to be some of the friendliest I’ve ever encountered. Next day we head out to the unremarkable little town of Sakon Nakhon. Could we have free aerobics every evening in our parks? There’s also a free aerobics session to pumping Thai techno music and it’s impossible not to join in. The day ends in the city park in Udon, to join the joggers, cyclists, and guys playing keepy uppy with a rattan ball. I need to dig out my jacket, find a tuktuk, drink coffee, get warm, and hire a car in that order. Until we’re pitched out into a cold and dark pre-dawn Udon Thani. These trains have improved since I was last on one and its a smooth ride in a comfy bed. The journey starts in Bangkok with the sleeper train from Hualamphung station. And especially when there is the promise of exciting textiles! OK – it’s never going to be high on any tourists’ list of “must dos” but there is something very appealing about getting away from the crowds of “ farangs” and Asian tour buses, and striking out into “The Real Thailand”.
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